if only this bed were a beach and i lived my life the way that i dressed~
as(s) seen by weah 4 april 2012
if only this bed were a beach and i lived my life the way that i dressed~
as(s) seen by weah 4 april 2012
contemplating a new do after day one of dunk training
as seen by just do it 3 april
pit check… yup still shining~
as seen by the queen of paris 2 april 2012
april’s fool
as seen by weah 1 april 2012
wise words~
Q and Answer: Where Can I Get Good Advice on Men’s Style?
John writes: I’m trying to transition to better, more interesting clothing, but when I double-check the internets regarding whether something is worth buying or not, I almost invariable return with a “OMG… yuck. You could buy it… and then burn it.” (I’m thinking specifically of what I’ve seen on Style Forum, but it might be a general issue too.) And I’m starting to get the impression that it’s not so much a matter of style as it is of status.
I understand that you often get what you pay for, but, seriously, I work for a museum. Buying $500 pairs of shoes would be awesome, but, for me, it would also be foolish. And the internet tells me that I’d be a tasteless buffoon for ordering shoes from Lands End.
Put This On is always a reasonable-minded place learn about fashion, and for that I’m grateful. But y’all are busy dudes—where else is a guy to look when it comes to advice that isn’t based on narcissism and posturing? Maybe I’m just asking for permission to be confident enough to ignore “I’m richer and more fashionable than you” nonsense. Yeah? Thanks!This is a pretty fraught issue, so I wade into it a little hesitantly, but I’ll give you my best thoughts.
I’ve generally found Style Forum to be a wonderful resource full of thoughtful, well-informed people who are happy to share information. Like many internet fora, however, it’s not especially welcoming to, shall we say, n00bs. There’s an archive of five years or more of information available for searching, and there’s not much patience there for folks looking for an answer to a question that applies only to them, or that’s been asked a dozen times. Responses to that kind of thing can be pretty unpleasant.
There are other clothing fora out there. Ask Andy About Clothes is generally a more positive place than Style Forum, but it also has a more conservative, traditional aesthetic. It’s also full of great people and information, but caters to an older, more classic American crowd, rather than the sharper Italianate and British-inspired looks you’ll see on Style Forum. The London Lounge is pretty amazing, but it focuses on bespoke clothing, which I’m guessing you’re not in the market for. The Fedora Lounge has some interesting information on hats and vintage clothes, but it also has a lot of… cosplayers. Reddit has a Fashion Advice forum, but along with some good advice there’s some, uhm, less good advice. SuperFuture has a lot of brand fetishists and tight-pants wearers, but it can be a valuable resource, especially for denim.
A list of the available fora wasn’t your precise question, though. Your real question, about money, is even more fraught.
The reality is that all of the people who populate these fora, and who write the blogs of the men’s style blogoverse, are enthusiasts. They care about the best things. Giuseppe from An Affordable Wardrobe is an enthusiast, and Will from A Suitable Wardrobe is an enthusiast. In most areas, the best things are also the most expensive. In many areas of men’s clothes, there is simply no inexpensive alternative if you’re paying full freight.
I’ll give you an example.
For our first episode, we decided to include a buying guide. In our guide, we highlighted the beautiful jeans that Rising Sun Denim makes in Pasadena (and they are beautiful). They cost about $350, which led to some very angry, bitter emails and web comments. We also highlighted the most basic “jean enthusiast” jean, the APC New Standard, which costs about $150. These also led to some angry, bitter web comments and emails. Our budget option was the Levi’s 501 shrink-to-fit.
The reality is that there’s a lot of compromise in the standard 501. It’s pretty roomy, and on slim and skinny guys, it’s not the most flattering cut. This is not unusual in a mass-market product - if something is cut bigger, it will fit more people. That goes for pant legs and arm holes and shirt torsoes and the whole nine. I’m a big guy, and I can wear 501s, though I prefer my slimmer 1947 501s, which were about a hundred bucks on eBay. When we said in the video that 501s were somewhat less baggy than before, we got a lot of emails from people complaining that we were putting down the cheap choice - and frankly, we were. Because the reality is that when you go down the food chain, there isn’t always a great choice at the bottom. The original 501 will work pretty well for a fair number of people, and it’s available at a very good price. It was the best option, but it’s far from perfect.
You know the old engineering saying, “Fast, good or cheap: pick two”? That also applies to shopping. I assume you’re here because you’ll want a good wardrobe. That leaves a choice between fast and cheap.
What I wouldn’t do is assume that everyone on Style Forum (or writing these blogs) is choosing fast over cheap. That all of us are rich people who can walk into Cleverley and order up a pair of bespoke shoes. The reality is that people who are enthusiasts are already spending their time. This is their hobby. Some of them are rich, some of them are thrift-store shoppers, some of them are deal-hounds, some of them have small wardrobes, some of them spend a larger portion of their income on clothes. Personally, I’m all of those except for rich, so I can relate.
The other day, a guy emailed me looking for a pair of shoes to wear while traveling in Europe. He said he wanted something cheap (his emphasis) and stylish, for his rugged classic style aesthetic. I suggested desert boots, he told me he wanted oxfords.
There’s not much I can do with that. There aren’t any cheap oxfords that I can recommend. At retail, there aren’t a lot of men’s dress shoes that are worth buying that are less than about $300. The market for good shoes has shrunken to the point where no value options are available. Now: can good shoes be had used, or on sale? Sure. But that requires an investment of time and knowledge. If you’re looking for cheap and fast, you have to drop good.
Lots of men’s style blogs are essentially lists of products. They’re composed of pictures from designers’ lookbooks, or product shots from boutiques. This is a great way to sell advertising - it’s the reason the one of the only new magazine success stories of the past ten years is Lucky, which is a list of things you can buy. It’s not what I do here, though.
The reason I generally post about ideas and principles rather than products or fashion is that I want to impart some information that helps you make your own informed decisions. I try to emphasize that quality is more important than quantity, that buying used is OK, that buying something great for a lot of money is OK if it’s within your budget, that looking for sales is OK.
These are things that you can learn from all of these places, even the product blogs, if you have the right perspective. The reality is that while I admire almost everything in Will’s A Suitable Wardrobe store, that’s not where my budget is at. That doesn’t mean I don’t sometimes find a Drake’s tie on eBay or at a thrift, though. You may see StyleForum as a place for rich snobs, but one of my favorite suits is a Brooks Brothers corduroy number I break out for country trips and special occasions, and I bought it new from a Brooks outlet for about a hundred bucks thanks to a tip on Style Forum.
The moral of the story: save money by simplifying, by shopping well, and by getting informed. And don’t let the bastards (real or percieved) get you down.
On Contrast and Balance
Dressing well means pulling things together that both match and contrast, and in doing so, striking a balance. Basic pattern mixing, for example, should involve varying patterns by type and scale. A striped shirt can sit well behind a bolder striped tie and glen plaid suit, or maybe even a windowpane.
Stephen Pulvirent, the writer behind The Simply Refined, recently wrote about the advantages of mixing “hard” and “soft” garments. Hard garments are things such as crisp white shirts, polished calf shoes, and any metal jewelry, while soft garments are flannels, challis ties, and wool sweaters. Wearing too many soft garments can make you look a bit sloppy and too relaxed, while wearing too many hard garments can make you seem rigid and stiff. Pulvirent admits that there are exceptions - a tweed jacket, corduroys, wool sweater, and suede loafers go quite well together - but he suggests that mixing the two is best. It’s a potentially controversial idea, but not one without some nugget of wisdom.I think there are other dimensions that are worth striking a contrast. A textured tie such as a woven grenadine or silk knit can sit well against the flatness of poplin or smoothness of gabardine. Likewise, a man should consider how he balances between the shine and dullness of his clothes. A lustrous silk tie looks good next to a dry linen pocket square, and a tie in a duller fabric, such as wool or cotton, is perfectly complemented by a shiny pocket square in a printed solid or foulard. Similarly, the gleam of a man’s tie or well polished shoes can act as a good counterbalance to his otherwise matte ensemble.
There are ways of doing this poorly, of course. A satin tie would not go well with a tweed jacket and winter wools shouldn’t be mixed with summer linens. Though you want things to contrast, nothing you wear should stand out on it’s own; everything should harmonize. But that’s why we seek to both match and contrast, and in doing so, we strike a balance.
anything can change your life if you really want it to~
this single article of clothing is responsible for my obsession with clothing~ if not for a cute girl at a department store i would never have bought these jeans four years ago, and if not for these jeans i would never have the developed the urge to cultivate my style~ these jeans taught me an important lesson about my wardrobe: less is more~ a realization that kickstarted the careful curation of the things i call my clothes and in turn gave rise to my feelings about fashion today~ so it is without coincidence that the evolution of a pair of raw denim jeans is a fitting (p) analogy for my journey into the world of clothing~ in the sporting of men’s clothing, a good pair of jeans is like a switch pitcher, a true clothing chameleon whose utility is not derived simply from versatility but also an ability to adapt easily to other outfits~ whether you’re wearing boots with a dress shirt and sportcoat or a t-shirt and sandals or nothing else at all, you know you’re always looking good when you wear your favorite jeans~ even with working a job that requires me to wear coat and tie everyday i would still be willing to bet that i wear an indigo jean more than any other style of garment in my wardrobe~ and this pair in particular i wear the most~ they are my first pair of raw denim and i remember not loving them right off the bat… i nearly didn’t get them because i thought they were too dark plus they were stiff and uncomfortable~ but something made me want to keep wearing them and pretty soon i realized that i don’t need 10 pairs of jeans if i only ever wear just one~ i love raw denim because you literally make it yours~ as i discovered my jeans getting softer, loosening up, fading intricately, i dare say i fell in love with indigo~ and so it is with a heavy heart that i am wearing these jeans as i write, one final time~
last seen 1 jan 2012~
(p) = pun intended
22 dec 2011
as seen by ben jammin
23 oct 2011
as seen by court me
22 dec 2011
as seen by ben jammin